Frequently Asked Q/A:
Q: At what age do the babies start getting weaned?
A: In litters, the pups tend to start eating solid foods around 2 weeks and the mom tends to slowly wean them around 3-4 weeks. At 4 weeks I separate the males and females (I have gone as late as 5 weeks though if I feel the extra nutrition is needed). The females stay with the mom and the males will either stay in their own group of brothers or, if there arn't too many of them, be introduced to my 'papa' rat (not used for breeding, but is extremely gentle and nurturing to babies). At 5 weeks I allow the babies to start going off to their new homes, however most stay until 6-7 weeks of age.
Q: At what age can rats breed?
A: Rats sexually mature around 5-6 weeks of age (which is why they are separated by then), however hormonally they are not mature until 5-9 months of age (typically around 6 months but I find that different rats mature at different ages). For these reasons, my does are not bred until at least 6 months of age, and most of my bucks are not bred until 9 months of age. My does are not bred past 1 year of age, at that time they'll be retired and pets-only. My bucks will continue to be used as studs until they no longer want to breed, or until I retire them (sickness, new studs of better quality enter, over 3 years of age)
Q: Why do you breed?
A: I'm breeding first and foremost for Longevity, temperament and health, with bone structure/build and varieties coming in a close second. My main goal is to produce overall-sounds rat as pets who will be loved and cherished until the terrible time comes and they pass (and will hopefully stay remembered and loved).
I'm involved in the dog show world which is all about breed type and creating the 'perfectly sound dog' through working with genetics. Although I do not currently show my rats, I'm hoping to in the future- that is once my lines are where I'd like them to be. By breeding towards show-standards i believe that the rats overall soundness of type, temperament and health will improve, leading towards a better companion.
Rats are incredible creatures, and for most I think that breeding them is a big no. If your not planning to treat them like family and give proper care then you'll get in way over your head and it won't be good for you or the rats. I have a small mischief to make sure that they all get the proper attention and care needed, and since I have limited pairings all the babies get tons of love and care, starting out life on a good note.
I breed as genetics work in amazing ways- I absolutely love working with recessive and dominant genes to creat a more precise variety and line. There are ups and downs when working with specific varieties, however that's why I mainly breed for pets.
The question 'why are you breeding' could have many different answers for me, but plain and simple- rats are awesome creatures with outstanding genetic make up that make lovely additions to a family if bred by a good breeder, which I aim to be.
Q: Where did you purchase your rats?
A: My stock have came from other breeders in my area that are well known and trusted; they have beautiful stock that are friendly and healthy with good type. The breeders I have gotten my rats from are also (for the most part) my mentors for breeding, and we help each other out with each others varieties when needed.
Q: Why should I purchase from a reputable breeder rather than a pet store?
A: The first few rats that I brought into my home were purchased from pet stores- Petco, PetSmart, Smaller Pet Stores. Although my heartbeat came from Petco, I would not suggest purchasing rats from pet stores- especially if they're being purchased as pets. Pet Store rats are typically bred as feeder rats, and most come from unhealthy lines. This can, and typically will, lead to tumors, huge vet bills, and ultimately a short life. By getting your rats from reputable breeders you are much more likely to bring healthy companions into your home, leading to a longer lasting friendship full of love and joy.
I officially became a breeder in 2014- I say officially because some rats that I've purchased in the past (from non-reputable breeders) ended up being pregnant. SURPRISE! I then had to care for 14 babies (the litters ranged from 9-17 babies) which I was unprepared for, but I did my best. By purchasing from a reputable breeder, you will be much more assured that you will not expect any oops litters within the next three weeks.
Although you can get great companions from a pet store, I highly suggest purchasing from a reputable breeder as their genetics and health will be more managed and well known.
Q: Do you have an adoption application?
A: I am currently in the process of creating an official adoption application. Currently I am just staying in contact with those who have purchased rats from me, and am receiving message and picture updates every so-often. Ive been studying my mentors adoption applications, along with other breeders applications, to figure out how to word my own. My goal is to have one completely figured out by the time my next planned litters are ready to be reserved (that won't be until at least February, so plenty of time to perfect it).
Q: How often do you breed?
A: I am a smaller Rattery and have limited litters each year. My does are only bred 1-2 times in their brood-career, between the ages of 6-12 months of age. I always breed two rats at the same time just Incase complications arise (doe becomes aggressive, isn't lactating, ect). The two who are bred are typically cage mates and I consider each pair one of my 'breeding duos'. If they're good mothers and produce sound babies, they will be bred a second time. If they do/are not, then they will not.
Q: I want to breed rats. Thoughts?
A: MAKE SURE YOU TAKE EVERYTHING INTO ACCOUNT! Rats may be small and an easier animal to breed, but it takes A LOT. Between the care of the parents and litters, it takes up a lot of time if done correctly- it also takes up a lot of money. Do not expect to make money off of breeding rats; your lucky to break even on costs. Between the food, advertising, housing, vet bills, and overall plans, breeding is not something that should be done by those who are not interested in the rats well-being.
Ask yourself: are you breeding for show, pets, or feeders? Do you have the adequate amount of funds, time, and space for breeding? What will you do if the babies don't sell? Are your stick from healthy, well known lines? What are your overall goals for now, and the future? If you are serious about getting into breeding, talk to breeders in and out of your area. Get input from those who are reputable sources and do your research. It's not all fun and games; breeding is filled with heartbreak and consequences if not done properly. Are you sure your ready?
Q: Can rats be housed alone?
A: I highly suggest having a companion of the same sex for your rats: pairs of 2+ are highly preferred. Rats are very social creatures and should have a companion with them at all times (there are exceptions but over-all).
Q: Will you adopt rats out as singles instead of in pairs/groups?
A: The only time I will adopt out single rats is if the home already has rat(s) of similar age and same gender (or fixed) that will allow a newcomer in. I always prefer rehoming in pairs of triplets though, to guarantee they have a buddy.
In the past I have rehomed single rats to homes where they would be the only rat, however that is only if the rat is aggressive towards other rats of the same, or opposite, gender. That does not happen very often, but it has before.
If for some reason the home is unable to keep the rat (complications for them or the rat arise) I'm always glad to receive them back. I'd much rather bring them back into my home, then them be rehomed to someone I never met.
Q: When do you start looking for homes for litters?
A: I have a waiting list of people to contact depending on the pairings that take place, so homes are looked for before the pairing ever happens. I typically take 5 reservations per litter, and once the litter is born I will add however-many homes to the list to stay updated. I keep these homes updated on everything that happens, including genders, varieties and temperaments of specific rats along with pictures of the litter. Once the litter turns 3 weeks, I allow for reservations to happen. If I'm planning to hold back and babies I typically know who I will by the age of 3 weeks (type and temperament start to show) however if I'm still debating I will have the debaters be held back until my choice is made. At 5 weeks I typically allow homes to start bringing in their new family members.
Q: What are the different varieties of genes?
A: Rat wise, there are two separate gene's: dominant and recessive. A dominant gene is the gene that is expressed in a rat. A recessive gene is any gene that is in a rats genetic make up but not visually expressed (this is seen for coat, color varieties, ear placement, ect). If a rat has one dominant gene and one recessive gene, they will typically express the dominant gene. However when breeding, if parents have the recessive gene then their offspring have a chance of presenting that gene. If it is not presented on the offspring, then that recessive gene will still be carried.
The Hairless variety is a great variety to look at as an example. A hairless x hairless pairing will result in hairless offspring. A hairless x standard pairing will result in standard, hairless carriers. A hairless carrier x hairless will result in hairless and the other dominant gene. A hairless carrier x hairless carrier could result in hairless or another coat type (could be many coat types depending on the parents coat variety).
Q: What are 'high whites' and why are they risky?
A: High Whites are considered risky as they have a greater chance of having Megacolon issues- large colon: the inability to move fecal material through the colon. High White is determined by the amount of white v/s color presented in, or in the genetic makeup, of a rat. For instance, BEW have a High White ratio making them prone to Megacolon; so do varieties such as Dalmatian, Husky and capped which have the 'S' spotting gene. Low whites include Berkshires, solids, or Irish marked rats.
Basically it's best to stay clear of any lines that have, in the past, presented megacolon. Not all white rats are manifested by megacolon, however rats without the common high white markings may also have MC.
Q: Why is the 'Rex Gene' different from other genes?
A: The Rex gene is unique. It's dominant, and can not be carried. Meaning, on average, if a Rex is bred to another coat type, half of the babies will be Rex. The other half will not carry the Rex gene, and will simply be the coat type present. The Rex coat can also come in in any color variety.
For my goal (Question #2) of breeding hairless carrier Rex does, I paired one of my Rex rats with one of my Hairless- half of the babies ended up being Rex, the other half were standard coated. The standard babies, if bred to another standard, would have produced standard offspring (possibly hairless depending on the genetic make up of the other rat). The Rex, however, if bred to another coat type, would have been half Rex (if the 'genetic dice' rolled based on probability of genetic make-up) and then some of the other coat type, and possibly some hairless if the other rat carried the hairless gene.
I personally LOVE working with the Rex gene, however it can get kind of confusing with the genetic make up. It definitively is unique
Q: I have decided to consider getting rats as pets- where do I start?
A: First and foremost, make sure you have the adequate time, space and money for your rats. They may be small, but they require a lot of attention and love. You should be spending a lot of time each day with your rats- I suggest AT LEAST an hour a day, or more; the more the merrier. They will need a companion and adequate housing. If they get sick, they will need vat care, or- depending on what's wrong- care from an experienced rat owner. This can cost a lot of money. Also expect to spend a descent amount on food, bedding and toys each month.
If raised right, rats are one of the most rewarding creatures who will fit in great with families. They are small and can be fragile, so if you are to own rats make sure those handling them are responsible enough to not squeeze or drop them. As stated before, I highly suggest purchasing from a reputable breeder- they will gladly help with any questions or concerns you may have.
A: In litters, the pups tend to start eating solid foods around 2 weeks and the mom tends to slowly wean them around 3-4 weeks. At 4 weeks I separate the males and females (I have gone as late as 5 weeks though if I feel the extra nutrition is needed). The females stay with the mom and the males will either stay in their own group of brothers or, if there arn't too many of them, be introduced to my 'papa' rat (not used for breeding, but is extremely gentle and nurturing to babies). At 5 weeks I allow the babies to start going off to their new homes, however most stay until 6-7 weeks of age.
Q: At what age can rats breed?
A: Rats sexually mature around 5-6 weeks of age (which is why they are separated by then), however hormonally they are not mature until 5-9 months of age (typically around 6 months but I find that different rats mature at different ages). For these reasons, my does are not bred until at least 6 months of age, and most of my bucks are not bred until 9 months of age. My does are not bred past 1 year of age, at that time they'll be retired and pets-only. My bucks will continue to be used as studs until they no longer want to breed, or until I retire them (sickness, new studs of better quality enter, over 3 years of age)
Q: Why do you breed?
A: I'm breeding first and foremost for Longevity, temperament and health, with bone structure/build and varieties coming in a close second. My main goal is to produce overall-sounds rat as pets who will be loved and cherished until the terrible time comes and they pass (and will hopefully stay remembered and loved).
I'm involved in the dog show world which is all about breed type and creating the 'perfectly sound dog' through working with genetics. Although I do not currently show my rats, I'm hoping to in the future- that is once my lines are where I'd like them to be. By breeding towards show-standards i believe that the rats overall soundness of type, temperament and health will improve, leading towards a better companion.
Rats are incredible creatures, and for most I think that breeding them is a big no. If your not planning to treat them like family and give proper care then you'll get in way over your head and it won't be good for you or the rats. I have a small mischief to make sure that they all get the proper attention and care needed, and since I have limited pairings all the babies get tons of love and care, starting out life on a good note.
I breed as genetics work in amazing ways- I absolutely love working with recessive and dominant genes to creat a more precise variety and line. There are ups and downs when working with specific varieties, however that's why I mainly breed for pets.
The question 'why are you breeding' could have many different answers for me, but plain and simple- rats are awesome creatures with outstanding genetic make up that make lovely additions to a family if bred by a good breeder, which I aim to be.
Q: Where did you purchase your rats?
A: My stock have came from other breeders in my area that are well known and trusted; they have beautiful stock that are friendly and healthy with good type. The breeders I have gotten my rats from are also (for the most part) my mentors for breeding, and we help each other out with each others varieties when needed.
Q: Why should I purchase from a reputable breeder rather than a pet store?
A: The first few rats that I brought into my home were purchased from pet stores- Petco, PetSmart, Smaller Pet Stores. Although my heartbeat came from Petco, I would not suggest purchasing rats from pet stores- especially if they're being purchased as pets. Pet Store rats are typically bred as feeder rats, and most come from unhealthy lines. This can, and typically will, lead to tumors, huge vet bills, and ultimately a short life. By getting your rats from reputable breeders you are much more likely to bring healthy companions into your home, leading to a longer lasting friendship full of love and joy.
I officially became a breeder in 2014- I say officially because some rats that I've purchased in the past (from non-reputable breeders) ended up being pregnant. SURPRISE! I then had to care for 14 babies (the litters ranged from 9-17 babies) which I was unprepared for, but I did my best. By purchasing from a reputable breeder, you will be much more assured that you will not expect any oops litters within the next three weeks.
Although you can get great companions from a pet store, I highly suggest purchasing from a reputable breeder as their genetics and health will be more managed and well known.
Q: Do you have an adoption application?
A: I am currently in the process of creating an official adoption application. Currently I am just staying in contact with those who have purchased rats from me, and am receiving message and picture updates every so-often. Ive been studying my mentors adoption applications, along with other breeders applications, to figure out how to word my own. My goal is to have one completely figured out by the time my next planned litters are ready to be reserved (that won't be until at least February, so plenty of time to perfect it).
Q: How often do you breed?
A: I am a smaller Rattery and have limited litters each year. My does are only bred 1-2 times in their brood-career, between the ages of 6-12 months of age. I always breed two rats at the same time just Incase complications arise (doe becomes aggressive, isn't lactating, ect). The two who are bred are typically cage mates and I consider each pair one of my 'breeding duos'. If they're good mothers and produce sound babies, they will be bred a second time. If they do/are not, then they will not.
Q: I want to breed rats. Thoughts?
A: MAKE SURE YOU TAKE EVERYTHING INTO ACCOUNT! Rats may be small and an easier animal to breed, but it takes A LOT. Between the care of the parents and litters, it takes up a lot of time if done correctly- it also takes up a lot of money. Do not expect to make money off of breeding rats; your lucky to break even on costs. Between the food, advertising, housing, vet bills, and overall plans, breeding is not something that should be done by those who are not interested in the rats well-being.
Ask yourself: are you breeding for show, pets, or feeders? Do you have the adequate amount of funds, time, and space for breeding? What will you do if the babies don't sell? Are your stick from healthy, well known lines? What are your overall goals for now, and the future? If you are serious about getting into breeding, talk to breeders in and out of your area. Get input from those who are reputable sources and do your research. It's not all fun and games; breeding is filled with heartbreak and consequences if not done properly. Are you sure your ready?
Q: Can rats be housed alone?
A: I highly suggest having a companion of the same sex for your rats: pairs of 2+ are highly preferred. Rats are very social creatures and should have a companion with them at all times (there are exceptions but over-all).
Q: Will you adopt rats out as singles instead of in pairs/groups?
A: The only time I will adopt out single rats is if the home already has rat(s) of similar age and same gender (or fixed) that will allow a newcomer in. I always prefer rehoming in pairs of triplets though, to guarantee they have a buddy.
In the past I have rehomed single rats to homes where they would be the only rat, however that is only if the rat is aggressive towards other rats of the same, or opposite, gender. That does not happen very often, but it has before.
If for some reason the home is unable to keep the rat (complications for them or the rat arise) I'm always glad to receive them back. I'd much rather bring them back into my home, then them be rehomed to someone I never met.
Q: When do you start looking for homes for litters?
A: I have a waiting list of people to contact depending on the pairings that take place, so homes are looked for before the pairing ever happens. I typically take 5 reservations per litter, and once the litter is born I will add however-many homes to the list to stay updated. I keep these homes updated on everything that happens, including genders, varieties and temperaments of specific rats along with pictures of the litter. Once the litter turns 3 weeks, I allow for reservations to happen. If I'm planning to hold back and babies I typically know who I will by the age of 3 weeks (type and temperament start to show) however if I'm still debating I will have the debaters be held back until my choice is made. At 5 weeks I typically allow homes to start bringing in their new family members.
Q: What are the different varieties of genes?
A: Rat wise, there are two separate gene's: dominant and recessive. A dominant gene is the gene that is expressed in a rat. A recessive gene is any gene that is in a rats genetic make up but not visually expressed (this is seen for coat, color varieties, ear placement, ect). If a rat has one dominant gene and one recessive gene, they will typically express the dominant gene. However when breeding, if parents have the recessive gene then their offspring have a chance of presenting that gene. If it is not presented on the offspring, then that recessive gene will still be carried.
The Hairless variety is a great variety to look at as an example. A hairless x hairless pairing will result in hairless offspring. A hairless x standard pairing will result in standard, hairless carriers. A hairless carrier x hairless will result in hairless and the other dominant gene. A hairless carrier x hairless carrier could result in hairless or another coat type (could be many coat types depending on the parents coat variety).
Q: What are 'high whites' and why are they risky?
A: High Whites are considered risky as they have a greater chance of having Megacolon issues- large colon: the inability to move fecal material through the colon. High White is determined by the amount of white v/s color presented in, or in the genetic makeup, of a rat. For instance, BEW have a High White ratio making them prone to Megacolon; so do varieties such as Dalmatian, Husky and capped which have the 'S' spotting gene. Low whites include Berkshires, solids, or Irish marked rats.
Basically it's best to stay clear of any lines that have, in the past, presented megacolon. Not all white rats are manifested by megacolon, however rats without the common high white markings may also have MC.
Q: Why is the 'Rex Gene' different from other genes?
A: The Rex gene is unique. It's dominant, and can not be carried. Meaning, on average, if a Rex is bred to another coat type, half of the babies will be Rex. The other half will not carry the Rex gene, and will simply be the coat type present. The Rex coat can also come in in any color variety.
For my goal (Question #2) of breeding hairless carrier Rex does, I paired one of my Rex rats with one of my Hairless- half of the babies ended up being Rex, the other half were standard coated. The standard babies, if bred to another standard, would have produced standard offspring (possibly hairless depending on the genetic make up of the other rat). The Rex, however, if bred to another coat type, would have been half Rex (if the 'genetic dice' rolled based on probability of genetic make-up) and then some of the other coat type, and possibly some hairless if the other rat carried the hairless gene.
I personally LOVE working with the Rex gene, however it can get kind of confusing with the genetic make up. It definitively is unique
Q: I have decided to consider getting rats as pets- where do I start?
A: First and foremost, make sure you have the adequate time, space and money for your rats. They may be small, but they require a lot of attention and love. You should be spending a lot of time each day with your rats- I suggest AT LEAST an hour a day, or more; the more the merrier. They will need a companion and adequate housing. If they get sick, they will need vat care, or- depending on what's wrong- care from an experienced rat owner. This can cost a lot of money. Also expect to spend a descent amount on food, bedding and toys each month.
If raised right, rats are one of the most rewarding creatures who will fit in great with families. They are small and can be fragile, so if you are to own rats make sure those handling them are responsible enough to not squeeze or drop them. As stated before, I highly suggest purchasing from a reputable breeder- they will gladly help with any questions or concerns you may have.